Hello and greetings from Bangalore, India. Let's just get right to the point and go over the first words that come to mind when describing India - utter and complete wild madness. Really, there's not much else I need to say for you to get the idea of what it's like for me here. But, in the spirit of vicarious travels, here we go!
I landed Sunday night after some rain delays to long, swirling, and messy customs lines. To get a better idea of what that was like, first - picture the Heathrow customs area, second - cut the space so that it's about a quarter and then count only six people with entry stams, third - take away all ropes and line guides and officials directing people, fourth - add a wall in the rear that forces the line to extend out the doors to the runway, fifth - add some heat, and last - just try to wait patiently and gently use your elbow to keep your place in line. Then, after I got the stamp I moved to the baggage area. Picture a luggage conveyer whose size is about 1/20 of the size needed and also an airport employee throwing the bags off the coveyer into a tight corner before they make the circle around so people waiting on the other side never get a chance to pick up their bags. When I finally got my bag after yelling at the man who threw it off before it reached me, I then head for the crowds ten deep on each side to find the person who's supposed to take you to the project director's house. Miraculously, I found Srinivas who's the director Saras's driver. After honking his way through cars, trucks, cows, dogs, and people, we made it out of the airport and eventual to Saras's house. Success!
Saras has been incredibly nice to me, though after seeing her yell at other people, I'm a little bit scared. Definitely want to stay on her good side! So Monday I started work and I'll be working on two main projects - first a research study evaluation the quality of obstetric care in the rural villages and also trying to determine why women who have access to giving birth in health centers choose to do so at home. Second project is working with two women's income generation projects and trying to evaluate the kind of effect they're having on the women. I'm also interested in finding a way to market the products in the U.S because I think the women will end up earning more if the products can sell outside of India. One group uses traditional India block stamps to print on fabric and make table clothes, scarves, etc and another makes paper out of scrap paper and cotton fibers and turns that into gift bags, note cards, etc. Yesterday I visited the two worksites in the rural villages and it was really exciting to see it all in action. It's something that I believe in theoretically and have read about extensively, so it was really moving to see it all up close and meet the women.
And now for the bug situation, because it's always on my mind... after seeing a flying cockroach at the office ''loo'' the first day, no sitings of the unmentionables since then. I did pee with some lizards and spiders at the field office yesterday in my first traditional India loo (squat over the hole, pour a bucket of water after you're done!!), but I don't mind those critters too much anymore.
I've also learned to take traditional Indian 'mug and bucket' showers. They're pretty much what they sound like... Fill the bucket with the tap, use the mug to dump water all over you. It was awkward at first, but I'm getting better at it and they waste so much less than traditional showers so maybe by the end I'll be a full-fledged convert.
My feet never seem to get very clean because you ALWAYS take off your shoes inside which means I'm barefoot for the whole day at work. I really liked it until I looked at the bottom of my feet.
Food is good and I haven't had too many problems adjusting to eating with my right hand because it's pretty much always with your hands and I'm much more adept at eating with my right hand than I would be at holding a fork with my right hand. I've been a little slow at adjusting to watching other people eat with their hands, but I'm getting better at being able to look up during meals now. We eat rice and spinach and lentils and meats all with our right hand, but use the left one to serve and hold the containers and drinks.
Tomorrow I move out of Saras's guest bedroom and into the Simha family's house. I'm just praying to any and every relevant god that the bathroom I use will have sitting toilet and not just the kind you have to stand over. Will update you as soon as I find out!
No generalizations yet, except that I realize India is huge and generalizations will invariably be wrong. Will let you know more as it happens.
Love, julie
1 comment:
Wow. Sometimes it's hard to imagine that my little sister who I used to give piggybacks and who I taught how to drink beer without falling down the stairs (remember that?) is squatting over toilets in India and yelling at native Indians to give her her suitcase. I'm proud of you! Keep up the good work and use the lessons Mom taught you about how to be assertive. Not that I'm worried in the slightest. Also, keep posting all the details of your travels (except the ones about the loo, which are kind of gross)
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